Entries in Aiguille du Midi (3)

Monday
Mar052012

The Bréche Puiseux, Couloir Marbrées, and Aiguille d'Argentiere

Kurt S., an ex-mogul champion from Tahoe now living in Vermont, just joined me for a few days of  steep Chamonix off-piste. He dove-tailed his ski vacation nicely with a bit of business in Paris.

Kurt doesn't crush the moguls like he did back in the day, although his 9-year-old daughter apparently does, and Kurt can crush me.

On our first day we skied up the Glacier Periades to the Breche Puiseaux. Kurt wanted to work on his "Base Training" for the upcombing road-biking season. There was a significant block of time where Kurt was moving at a steady 2500 ft/hr pace. Keep in mind, he was skinning in Lange race boots and Marker Dukes on 190cm K2 Coombas.

There was a small que at the Bréche, and we had a leisurely lunch on the Mallet Glacier after the rappels (the ropes are fixed by the way - as of March 4, 2012). Then skies the Mallet, finding good, untracked, wind-buffed snow at skiers right closer to the base of the Grandes Jorasses. I never took any photos because Kurt is such a fast skier, he was always catching up to me.

We did the 6km glide down the Lescheux Glacier to the Mer de Glace, then fought our way through afternoon traffic on the Buvette (the "James Bond Run").

 

Kurt on the Leschaux Glacier - Petite Jorasses in the background. During the four days Kurt and I were skiing, Chamonix was blasted by the beginnings of what is becoming a significant and unseasonably warm heat wave. The powder is gone in all but the highest and most northerly wind-protected aspects. But the spring snow cycle is starting to get good.

On day two I chose to take Kurt on a tour of one of the most famous (and sometimes intimidating) ski descents on the Mont Blanc Massif - the Couloir des Marbrées. This couloir starts just behind the Aiguilles Marbrées, almost in the Col de Rochefort. The entrance is steep, and a fall here would not be wise. On a nice, spring morning, when the sun has been hitting the entrance for a few hours, the snow softens up to a solid and easily carvable inch or so of corn. In spring conditions, timing is everything... Kurt and I dropped in at 10:45 am. Rocks are starting to show on the entrance traverse, which makes things a little tricker, but once you're locked into your bindings, the confidence goes way up.

The upper and mid couloir skied quite well. The glacier below was soft and good, but below the glacier terminus the snow was trending to isothermal slop with poor stability. We were still early enough not to be in the red-flag zone of wet slides, as we skied below some steeper slopes and down into the safety of lower angled slopes and dense trees.

Kurt at the Marbrées entrance - the Vallée Blanche in the background. Looking into the Marbrées from the entrance.

Kurt easing into the Marbrées entrance. 40-45° terrain for about 3000 feet. Looking back up towards the Marbrées Couloir from the glacier. Kurt is the black dot just left of the icefall

When we finally made it to the car park in La Palud, the lower elevation snow was complete crap, but there was still just enough time to squeak in a lap of the Toule Glacier. We hopped back on the Funivie Monte Bianco and took it back up to Point Hellbronner, and side-stepped over to the couloirs entering the Toule Glacier (One can walk down the stairs if the entrance couloirs don't look good).

The couloir entrance is as steep as it looks. It bottlenecks down below too. We skied spring snow and schmoo down to the Panoramic restaraunt at the Hellbronner mid-station, choosing to eat Italian food and download on the lift rather than tear our ACL's and/or get buried by wet, loose, isothermal crap snow on the lower 2000 feet.

 

The Aiguille d'Argentier was our last objective before Kurt was to head off to Paris. Ideally, we'd be able to drop into the Couloir Barbey, but the Chamonix winter of 2012 has been a windy one at high elevations. Ergo, I've been more cautious than normal when evaluating the committing no-fall-zone-entrances of famous ski descents at higher elevations; they have been firm and icy on some aspects.

After stepping out of the Grands Montets cable car station we descended past the Rognon towards the Argentiere Glacier on snow snow firm I think a few fillings fell out. Kurt and I skinned up the Milieu Glacier at a blistering pace (Now Kurt was acclimated to 3000m so I stood no chance at keeping up). We crossed the bergschrund and booted up to the summit, which was a very social experience. About a dozen fellow ski-tourers were snacking on the summit and admiring the views. Two tracks entered the Barbey but I held firm to my choice not to ski it. The Mileu would do just fine, and offers 40° degree terrain through a narrow couloir anyway. The crux is negotiating skier-vs-climber 2-way traffic in the Couloir - I'm glad I wore my helmet on the way up.

Cumulus clouds that had formed during our ascent kept the snow firm for yet another tooth-rattling descent. No matter: within an hour we were drinking beer at Les Marmottons.

Kurt on the Aiguille d'Argentiere summit on a social Chamonix Saturday!The summit of the Aiguille d"Argentiere. The Couloir Barbey starts just over the cornice from the highest group of skiers you can ski. Otherwise the Milieu Glacier route descends down and left. Kurt on the Glacier d'Argentiere

Friday
Jan272012

Chamonix powder! Grand Envers and Cosmiques Couloir

"You first?"..."No YOU go!"

I don't have the best record of skiing powder in Chamonix. In the past few seasons, a prevailing dry climate has robbed the alps of good powder skiing during month-long spells - usually the times I am actually here. In late 2011, storm after storm slammed into the alps, mantling the range in a snow pack ranging from 150-180% of normal. While that was happening I was sipping Mai Thai's on the beach in Thailand. An early 2012 storm came in hard, and went out with a sudden heat pulse - driving the rain line up to 2200 meters. Slush anyone?

What the hell was going on?

Finally cold temps and sunshine followed a decent dump. Ben Mitchell, David Rosenbarger and I somehow made it onto first bin of the Aiguille du Midi - despite Ben's jet lag and my procrastination. A million tiny ants exited the top bin, walked out of the ice tunnel, and clogged their way down the fixed lines in their earnest efforts to claim glory and first tracks in the Vallee Blanche. Ben, David and I stayed high, skied out the Midi-Plan ridge, and looked down the first 40°+ rollover to the Grand Envers. No tracks, and full of powder...
Ben and David looking into the start of the Grand Envers run in the Vallee BlancheBen, first tracks, Grand EnversDavid on roll over #2 of the Grand Envers.In case you haven't noticed, bright colored pants are in this season. Somewhere inside this powder cloud, David Rosenbarger is looking for the exit sign.
Ben, with 2000 feet to go to the Mer de Glace.
We skied untracked powder to the traverse above the the Requin hut, then shared the exit couloirs with three others. We double-polled down the Mer de Glace to the Buvet, booted up, and skied James Bond-style to the bottom. I was ready to throw my BD Zealots in the garbage - they can't handle variable weird snow at all.
Les Drus, the Aiguille Vert, and more rocky terrain from the Mer de Glace.
We rushed over to the Midi, thinking we could get another decent shot (albeit tracked up heavily). Fellow guide Miles Smart sent me a text: "Cosmiques - 1st tracks... Unreal..." followed immediately by "...no tracks behind us".  Our minds were changed. In my previous experiences, skiing the Couloir de Cosmiques was fun, but always in a bittersweet way when one must ski laboriously down firm, tracked-out chalky "cooler" snow.
We arrived at the top of the Midi, wove delicately through crowds down the ridge, dove down to the plateau, and side-stepped quickly up to the heavily rimed Cosmiques entrance. It was a beautiful landscape this morning.
"Hey - couldn't this guy to my right have picked a different color jacket to wear today?"David rapping into the Cosmiques.
Ben Mitchell, mid-rap. Normally there is a lot of rock fall hazard in this entrance.The rime helps. Ben Mitchell - smiling before turn #1. First turns of the Cosmiques.One of my favorite shots of the day: Ben went out to skiers right where the freshest snow was. Les Bossons Glaicer and Les Houches down below.
David and Ben arced wide, gracefull, GS turns down a swath of untracked snow on skiers' right. I did my best to follow with my weak Thailand sport-climbing legs. The snow was powder all the way. We skied the Glacier des Bossons to the Mont Blanc tunnel, then I went home, ate lunch, and stretched the lactic acid out of my legs from just two ski runs (but 18,000 vertical feet).
Thursday
Sep152011

Entreves traverse and the Rebuffat Route - Midi south face. 

Doug S arrived in to Chamonix for a week of climbing prior to a week of beer-tasting in Munich for Oktoberfest. Doug climbed with me a year ago in Zermatt, but was interested to see what all the alpine terrain in Chamonix was all about.

We started out by driving through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to La Palud, where we consumed three espressos. Before the buzz could wear off we rode the Funivia Monte Bianco lift system up to Point Hellebronner, walked along the upper Vallee Blanche, and climbed the traverse of the Entreves. Doug did the climb easily and could have handled much harder. We wrote it off as "acclimatization". Besides, he rationalized: why struggle too hard? It only prolongs your arrival  the bar!

We were back in La Palud by mid afternoon, after a beer and coffee at the Torino hut.

The classic view one sees of the summit of the Aiguille des Entreves. France ls left of the ridge, Italy is to the right. Doug hand-traversing in Italy before mantling back into France, and climbing another hand-crack back into Italy. Doug hamming it up on the Entreves summit. One of the best things about my job, and my life! - I get to fly home sometimes...

Yesterday Doug and I climbed the Rebuffat route on the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi. I was at a loss to pick something appropriate for Doug, since the traverse of the Crochues and the Entreves had probably felt easy for him. The Rebuffat seemed appropriate: The crux move was just hard enough to spit Doug off - but after all he was carrying axe, crampons, and boots - among other things - in the rucksack.

On pitch 3 of the Rebuffat Route - some of the best granite anywhere!the last pitch of the Voie Contamine was manufactured principally for its rich photography potential. Once again. If you have a paraglider then you have a nice way to return from work from the mountains.

Tomorrow its off to The Contamine Grisson on the Aiguille du Tacul, followed by an ascent of Mont Blanc via the Trois Sommet route on Friday.